22896 Copper Hill Drive Santa Clarita, California 91350 Phone: (661) 297-5824

Peruvian at Inca Bistro: Scrumptious food is exciting and quite different

By Michelle Sathe, Signal Staff Writer

November 27, 2009

The cuisine may be thousands of years old, but Peruvian tastes are fairly new to the Santa Clarita Valley. Inca Bistro, located in the former California Pasta Works space on Copper Hill Drive, offers a delicious way to sample the sensational spices and savory fare.

Eat in and you'll get a complimentary cup of Aguadito de Pollo to start things off. Loaded with shredded chicken, peas, carrots, potatoes and onions, with a slight green tinge from aromatic herbs, it's a zesty version of classic American chicken soup. It's also available by the bowl for $7.

Appetizers include a clean, bright ceviche ($8), exploding with citrus notes from its lime marinade and tartness from red wine vinegar and topped with a hail of red onions. The tasty, fresh whitefish is surrounded by massive imported Peruvian corn kernels and steamed sweet potato.

"In Peru, we serve our ceviche a little spicy, so the sweet potato helps to balance things out," said Inca Bistro co-owner Erick Castro.

Empanizado de Quinua are the most tender of white meat chicken strips, encrusted in a delicate golden crust of quinoa and served with a side of bright green salsa criolla ($8). The heady salsa is a perfect foil to the tasty chicken, building its spicy profile over time and lingering in the palate.

Another excellent starter is the Papa A la Huancaina ($5), a stack of thick potato slices enrobed in a lively, creamy cheese sauce and topped with piquant kalamata olives. The orange flecks are aji amarillo, a yellow Peruvian pepper that's the secret weapon of most of Inca's dishes, according to chef Kim Pullan.

"It's spicy yet subtle. It doesn't burn. It has a really unique taste," Pullan said.

The French-trained chef was specially instructed by Peruvian cooks to master the necessary elements required by Inca Bistro and it was a quest she really enjoyed.

"The spices, the colors, the way the flavors are married is just amazing. It's fresh and vibrant," Pullan said.

Main courses at the restaurant are in the $12 - $20 range at lunch, increasing just slightly to $15 to $20 at dinner, and offer a lot of value, as well as flavor.

Carnivores will delight in the Lomo Fino ($17), a thick cut of melt-in-your-mouth filet mignon, expertly grilled and just lightly seasoned to enhance its rich, mineral essence. Nutty, fluffy quinoa, like a cross between cous cous and rice, makes for a nice, light side, along with elegant spears of asparagus.

Another standout is the Emperor's Feast ($20), which features the current bestseller, Lomo Saltado, a flavorful mélange of sautéed beef with roasted, luscious, almost caramelized tomatoes and onions, and Taccu Taccu, a succulent chicken breast with a crunchy crust ala Chicken Milanese, with more of that incredible salsa criolla, plus a tasty mound of mild red beans and rice, and hand-cut steak fries.

Vegans can also get their culinary groove on at Inca, with a meatless version of the feast called the Emperors Portabello ($10), a generous cap stuffed with roasted garlic, cilantro, and parsley, served atop a bed of grilled eggplant and quinoa or the Avocado a la Reina ($6), stuffed with a refreshingly dressed vegetable medley.

Inca Bistro opened on Nov. 15 with Castro, his wife Roxanna, and co-owner Mel Nunez, all Peruvians, at the helm.

The venue is bright and cheery, with lots of light streaming in from huge picture windows, while an Inca warrior under glass stands guard over the dining room. Walls are painted gold and the linens are white and vivid burgundy.

Charming pendant lights are a gorgeous crimson, which plays nicely against the distressed, polished concrete floor with hints of bronze, copper and gold. At night the lights are dimmed, creating a romantic ambiance, which is enhanced on Saturday nights by live traditional acoustic Peruvian music.

A liquor license is in the works and should be approved within the next few weeks. Until then, customers are welcome to bring in their own wine, with no corkage fee. Inca is available for private parties and offers outside catering, as well.

"We really felt like we had something to offer Santa Clarita. Our food is exciting and quite different from what you find around town," Nunez said. "I think our prices are in line or even a little lower than other restaurants. It's hard to find filet mignon for under $22 and we have it for $17. However, we're not trying to be competitive in price. It's all about the quality."

Inca Bistro is located at 22896 Copper Hill Drive, Saugus, CA 91350. Open daily from 11 a.m. - 9 p.m. (661) 297-5824.