27653 Bouquet Canyon Rd. Saugus, California 91350 Phone: (661) 263-7445

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Get Some Grill Kabob

Offering mouth-watering Middle Eastern fare

By Michelle Sathe, Signal Senior Staff Writer

In a valley of franchised fast food, authentic ethnic joints like Grill Kabob often get overlooked.

That's a shame.

Not only is the food being served at this modest Saugus restaurant a great value, it's healthy, too. Most of all, it's tasty.

A combination plate of boneless chicken breast ($5.95 - served all day) is a beautiful symphony of color and flavor. Saffron-tinged, fluffy basmati rice forms a base topped with light orange chunks of tikka-like chicken chunks, while the sides include a vibrant grilled tomato, a golden pool of hummus, and a Greek salad full of olives and feta.

It's amazing the chicken is so tender and juicy, as there's virtually no fat to be found. A simple marinade of lemon juice, olive oil and spices gets soaked up and provides the savory goodness, accented by a slight char from the grill.

"It's our best-seller," said Ara Karamian, Grill Kabob owner. "We make everything to order and our food is very fresh. Nine out of 10 items are grilled and the ingredients we use - olive oil, lemon, parsley, mint, tomato, onion - are all very good for your body."

Karamian started his professional culinary career in Canada before moving to Saugus with his family five years ago, however, his love of food began much earlier. Born in Iran and of Armenian descent, Karamian would cook alongside his parents and grandparents, preparing traditional dishes that have become the basis of Grill Kabob's menu.

After three years in business, Karamian can still be found at the restaurant six days a week, prepping the marinades and side dishes.

"We developed our recipes through trial and error. The best way to know we're doing it right is when your customers say, your hummus is the best, which ours do," Karamian said proudly. "One customer told me that his pregnant wife used to dream of our ekra."

After tasting this eggplant salad, it's easy to see why.

Lush, silky, redolent with a hint of subtle smoke from rustic bits of grilled tomato, peppers, and eggplant, ekra is an exotic, addictive chutney, a party for the taste buds. Hummus runs a close second; the creamy tahini and garbanzo dip boasts just the right amount of garlic, olive oil and lemon juice. Both can be ordered as part of the vegetarian plate ($8.95), which offers a choice of five salads (artichoke, ekra, green bean, Greek, tabbouleh, hummus, shirazi, or bobagnosh).

The falafel plate ($5.95) is another delicious vegetarian choice: five large spheres of freshly ground garbanzo mingling with spices, cooked to a deep golden brown, crisp on the outside and moist on the inside. A falafel wrap, tucked in lavash with tomato, cucumber, onion and a liberal douse of excellent tzatziki sauce, is also available ($4.95).

Another excellent meat-free meal would be the dolma plate ($5.95), which offers five fantastically fresh, rice-and-herb-stuffed grape leaves alongside a refreshingly herby tabbouleh and that incredible hummus.

For carnivores, the attraction is surely the impressive lineup of sizzling grilled kabobs: beef ($10.95), luleh (seasoned ground beef with grated onion, $7.95), chicken ($5.95 - $9.95), or a combo plate ($11.95).

A family-style meal for $19.95 serves two to four with a choice of two kabobs (chicken or beef), a large Greek salad, grilled tomato, pita and for dessert, baklava from The Baklava Factory in Encino, the only thing Karamian doesn't make on the premises.

Grill Kabob's catering menu can feed parties of six or more starting at just $6 a person, while the child kid's plates (chicken nuggets, chicken kabob, mini-kabob, or hamburger with fries and small drink) run $3.99 - $5.95.

"Like everyone right now, the economy is really hurting us. That's why we brought back the chicken special and our other items at a lower cost," Karamian said. "Once people try our food, they really appreciate the quality and prices."

Amen.

Grill Kabob, 27653 Bouquet Canyon Road, Saugus; (661) 263-7445 or (661) 263-7449. Open 11 a.m. - 9 p.m., Tuesday - Sunday. Beer and wine available.